Harlem Fashion Show and Style Awards Kick Off New York Fashion Week With a Bang – Essence

Though not on the official New York Fashion Week calendar, Harlem Fashion Row’s Show and Style Awards are a mainstay. Now in its 17th year, the celebration is perhaps the most authentic showcase of New York City each September. Yesterday afternoon, at the intersection of Riverside Drive and 122nd Street in Harlem, founder Brandice Daniel was joined by her family, fashion titans Misa Hylton, Dapper Dan, other creatives, and many others who are part of her tribe.

Radical depictions of reality were the common thread that connected each of the night’s honorees. When Tracee Ellis Ross took the stage to pay tribute to her best friend Samira Nasr, the editor-in-chief of Harper’s BazaarIt was wonderful to hear her speak of her kinship with the talented Nasr, winner of the “Editor of the Year” award. Many admire the work of the highly valued editor and former fashion director, so it is worth noting that Ross considers her a sister.

Ross alluded to how the duo has grown alongside each other, even mentioning that she couldn’t be who she is without Nasr. “Lady Nasr has broadened the perspective of what should be on the cover and in the pages of a glossy magazine and whose stories deserve to be told.” She went on to state that under her guidance Harper’s Bazaar It is “an intersection of high fashion and culture with a high journalistic standard.”

Nasr contextualized her award-winning moment amid the idea that the role of magazines and fashion journals remains the same. She said she reflected on the following about the role of the magazine under her aegis: “To delight and surprise our readers. To offer the best of fashion and the culture that shapes it,” she said. “The most important thing is to be a record of our time. When I started in my position four years ago, the question I always came back to and the question that helped me define my purpose in this position was: who can be part of that record?” she said.

As the evening progressed, Lena Waithe expressed her love and admiration for costume designer and stylist Shiona Turini, who was awarded “Stylist of the Year.” “Her trust is not empty, it has been earned time and time again,” she shared. Waithe mentioned that director Melina Matsoukas introduced the duo who later collaborated on the much-talked-about film, Queen and thin for which Turini directed the costume design.

Turnini’s moment of acceptance was equally memorable. While on stage, she shared that she knows she leans on the icons who came before her, such as June Ambrose, Misa Hylton and others. These are some of the names she says sparked in her when she was a young girl in Bermuda watching television.

“While it is an honour, it is even more of an honour to be celebrated by your own people,” she said. Turini added: “I know what it feels like to do this work in an industry that often leaves us out or fails to recognise the role that Black creatives play in sustaining and revitalising the fashion industry.”

Corey Smith, LVMH’s North American director of diversity, equity and inclusion, introduced singer, creative director and artist Teyana Taylor, who received the Virgil Abloh Award.

Upon receiving this honor, she expressed her deep affection for Harlem and how it has been a crucial part of her upbringing, allowing her creativity to flourish. She also mentioned that her mother remains a constant source of inspiration for her.

Elsewhere in the evening, supermodel “Icon of the Year” Naomi Campbell detailed how Harlem has embraced and inspired her over the years by showing her “a whole new world of style.” Andre Leon Talley and the late Reverend Calvin Butts, two key figures in New York City, were mentioned.

A signature element of HFR’s annual festivities is the presentation of its designers. This year, Jimmy LaTouche, Nicole Benefield and Aaron Potts took the stage to reveal their latest collections.

During a recent conversation, Potts, a New York-based designer, explained in detail how HFR is a creative ecosystem that he is proud to be a part of. He hinted that his collection would combine creativity and practicality, based on the theme of “Urban Oceania,” and so it did. Splashes of blue and hints of shimmering metallic hues made up his eye-catching clothes. “The other thing I injected was this sense of iridescence that happens underwater[with the fish].”

Brooklyn-born designer Benefield of Nicole Benfield Portfolio, who combined fall and spring offerings in her latest line, leaned heavily into hues like lime green. She shared that she built her collection around aspirational editorial moments. On a video call, the designer expressed that she chose to infuse more color than typically seen on her in the past; she also celebrated fabrics and created pieces that felt playful. Utility-inspired button-down shirts and wide-length palazzo pants in bold hues walked the runway.

LaTouche, who lives in New Jersey, said her collection could be described as a reflection of the moment. “(My collection) comes from (my) Haitian roots. Spending summers in Haiti has taught me to wear the bare minimum, but to be opulent.” A long floral coat and a grey plaid suit were juxtaposed separately in two different looks.

Each collection was drastically different, but also quite expressive. The various hues and silhouettes presented spoke to the wealth of inspirations the designers drew from. I thought of Potts’ statement that HFR provides an ecosystem and was reminded of another important notion she mentioned. “For my brand this season, but also for the brand in general, it’s really about marrying my sense of creativity with real-life practicality,” Potts shared over Zoom. Her creations, in addition to the others presented, meet these requirements while also being provocative and full of energy.

One sentiment in particular stood out to me throughout the evening. Campbell aptly expressed words that honor Brandice Daniel and her impact, saying, “Brandice Daniel and your entire team, thank you for your commitment to elevating diverse voices in fashion.” She also added that HFR, led by Daniels, doesn’t just showcase talent; it also nurtures and champions it, pushing it forward. This sentiment resonated strongly and provided the clearest insight into the essence of the evening and the importance of HFR.